Dojoji Temple

After driving back to Kyoto city from Amanohashidate, we were dropped off at Kyoto Station.  Though the official weekend was over, we still had three days off from our Japanese classes.  This was because of the Obon Holiday. 

Instead of pouting because of missing three full days of classes (and still paying for them), we leapt at the opportunity to explore more of Japan.  From Kyoto, we got on an express train and headed south into Wakayama.  

Photo credit: http://jahmp.org/history.php?t=Issei

Last year while studying at Yamasa, we met a friend who happens to live in Wakayama.  She generously invited us down to visit her for a few days.  We accepted. 

Wakayama Prefecture is south of Kyoto in the central area of Japan.  It is considered to be a relatively “inaka” (rural) area.  Half of the prefecture is coastal area, the other half mountainous.  We were able to see a bit of both sides during our trip. 

One of the first places we visited was Dodoji Temple.  This temple is surrounded by interesting history and stories.  The story surrounding the Dojoji Temple is one of unrequited love.  This stop animation video from the 1970's offers a silent depiction of the story:  (Note-As I researched this story, I found a number of summaries with slight variants.  This is a simple summary in my own words.)

An old Buddhist priest, accompanied by a young Buddhist priest, stop to rest on their journey.  The daughter of the home at which they stay falls in love with the young priest.  He flees her advances and seeks refuge at Dojoji Temple. The resident priests hide him in a bell.  During her pursuit of her unrequited love, she is consumed with rage and transforms into a serpent.  When she reaches Dojoji, she senses the young priests presence within the bell and destroys him with her flames after which she drowns herself.

Pretty cheery stuff.

This story has also been famously adapted for both Noh-traditional Japanese theater, and for Kabuki-Japanese classical singing and dancing drama.  I managed to find a complete performance of the Kabuki version. 

Photo Credit: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O446938/noh-mask-suzuki-nohjin/

 This link provides some more information on the different types of performances that the story has been told using. 

This photo is a good example of a typical Noh mask.  The demon face is a common image used in Japanese style tattoos.

We explored the ground of the temple and paid to go inside the museum.  The original bell does not exist any longer, but we were able to see the very impressive replica along with many other stunning images in the form of statue, painting, and textile.  It was truly fascinating.

Though a bit far removed from the typical Japanese tourist plans, I highly recommend exploring Dojoji Temple to anyone who finds themselves exploring Wakayama. 

One of the two guardians at the gate.

The main temple.

A Buddha.

Petitions.

Lotus flower blooming in front of the temple.

飛躍 (Hiyaku-to leap forward)

This is the first section of one of the koto pieces I have recently studied.  My part was the second part, I could not find a recording of both parts played together, which is unfortunate because it is stunningly beautiful.

Here is the first page of music.  Each measure is a "box."  There are thirteen strings, each assigned a kanji character.  The first ten are simple numbered one through ten.  The last three strings are "toh, ee and kin."  I am not sure why...  The strings kanji are as follows from lowest to highest-ichi to kin.

一、二、三、四、五、六、七、八、九, 十、斗、為、巾。

My part, the second (which is what I am playing the video),  is the part on the left.  The music is read top to bottom, right to left.  I have added further explanations of some of the notations in blue. 

Since this piece is several pages long, I just recorded the first and last sections.  Here is the ending:

There are also many, many ways to tune the koto.  This piece has a more "major" sound to it whereas Sakura sounds "minor." 

More to come!

さくらさくら (Sakura, Sakura)

Sakura-Cherry blossoms.

This is probably the most famous folk song from Japan...even if you don't think you know anything about Japan, chances are good that you have heard this tune.

When you start learning how to play the koto, this is the first piece you learn.  It's like learning "Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star" when beginning to study the piano.


When I began my koto studies this past July, I also had to learn Sakura...

This is a very simple version of Sakura.  My teacher recently gave me the "advanced" version, which I have just begun to learn.  More on that later.

Stay tuned for more pieces and a post on the sheet music of the koto. (It's waaaaaaay different from what I was used to reading!)

An Investment

Leaning against a wall in the tatami room, there were six or seven kotos.  Their long, graceful figures reaching towards the ceiling.  I couldn’t believe I was about to call one of these exotic instruments my own.

“Which one do you like?” asked my teacher. 

“Which one is best?”

The one with the orange floral décor was the best quality, she said.  I completely trusted her opinion.  The decision was made.  

Next, the accessories:  ivory picks, the pick case, the silky koto cover, the music stand, the koto stands and the music itself.  

For a musician, this was like Christmas morning.  So. Exciting.

My first koto lesson was spent getting me set up with all of my new equipment, explaining the instrument and simple first instructions.

I was practically bursting with excitement.  I had gone from being a full-time music major practicing for hours every day, to not even having an instrument to play for the past year.  A big change.

I have now been studying koto since early July.  It is completely different from any musical instrument I have ever played-I love it.  This could very well be the groundwork for a future masters degree in ethnomusicology. 

You never know…I just follow my love of music through life.

So far it hasn’t led me astray. 

More on the music (maybe even a video!) and koto learning adventures coming soon.