Dojoji Temple

After driving back to Kyoto city from Amanohashidate, we were dropped off at Kyoto Station.  Though the official weekend was over, we still had three days off from our Japanese classes.  This was because of the Obon Holiday. 

Instead of pouting because of missing three full days of classes (and still paying for them), we leapt at the opportunity to explore more of Japan.  From Kyoto, we got on an express train and headed south into Wakayama.  

Photo credit: http://jahmp.org/history.php?t=Issei

Last year while studying at Yamasa, we met a friend who happens to live in Wakayama.  She generously invited us down to visit her for a few days.  We accepted. 

Wakayama Prefecture is south of Kyoto in the central area of Japan.  It is considered to be a relatively “inaka” (rural) area.  Half of the prefecture is coastal area, the other half mountainous.  We were able to see a bit of both sides during our trip. 

One of the first places we visited was Dodoji Temple.  This temple is surrounded by interesting history and stories.  The story surrounding the Dojoji Temple is one of unrequited love.  This stop animation video from the 1970's offers a silent depiction of the story:  (Note-As I researched this story, I found a number of summaries with slight variants.  This is a simple summary in my own words.)

An old Buddhist priest, accompanied by a young Buddhist priest, stop to rest on their journey.  The daughter of the home at which they stay falls in love with the young priest.  He flees her advances and seeks refuge at Dojoji Temple. The resident priests hide him in a bell.  During her pursuit of her unrequited love, she is consumed with rage and transforms into a serpent.  When she reaches Dojoji, she senses the young priests presence within the bell and destroys him with her flames after which she drowns herself.

Pretty cheery stuff.

This story has also been famously adapted for both Noh-traditional Japanese theater, and for Kabuki-Japanese classical singing and dancing drama.  I managed to find a complete performance of the Kabuki version. 

Photo Credit: http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O446938/noh-mask-suzuki-nohjin/

 This link provides some more information on the different types of performances that the story has been told using. 

This photo is a good example of a typical Noh mask.  The demon face is a common image used in Japanese style tattoos.

We explored the ground of the temple and paid to go inside the museum.  The original bell does not exist any longer, but we were able to see the very impressive replica along with many other stunning images in the form of statue, painting, and textile.  It was truly fascinating.

Though a bit far removed from the typical Japanese tourist plans, I highly recommend exploring Dojoji Temple to anyone who finds themselves exploring Wakayama. 

One of the two guardians at the gate.

The main temple.

A Buddha.

Petitions.

Lotus flower blooming in front of the temple.

Amanohashidate

I am one of those people who really likes lists.  Grocery lists, to-do lists, books to read lists, etc. Currently, the one list I think about a lot right now is my “Things To Do Before Leaving Japan” list. 

We will be in Japan for a while longer yet, but I am also a planner.  I constantly find myself thinking about the future and planning. 

During our time studying at Yamasa in Okazaki we were able to cross off some big things from the list: climbing Mount Fuji, exploring Kyoto more thoroughly (more on that later), and seeing Amanohashidate.

There are three places in Japan considered to be the most picturesque in the entire country.  The torii of Itsukushima Shrine, Matsushima, and Amanohashidate.  Two down, one to go!

Amanohashidate is a natural sand bar along the sea of Japan on the north side of Kyoto. Its natural shape is absolutely fascinating. 

We rode up a lift to reach the best viewing point.  It was stunning.  Supposedly, if you turn upside down and look at it through your legs, the sandbar will look like "A bridge to the heavens."  

Chion-Ji Temple entrance.  This temple is very close to one of the ends of the sand bar.

Bad fortunes are left at the temple.  If you get a good fortune, you take it with you.

After coming back down the lift, we rented some bicycles and explored the area.  It was lovely.  I wish we had had time to take a swim.  The water looked amazing. 

Motoise Kono Shrine on the opposite end of the sandbar as the Chion-Ji Temple.

Biking across Amanohashidate

Though difficult to access by public transportation, I highly recommend seeing Amanohashidate.  With its natural shape and beauty, it’s no wonder that it on the most beautiful places in Japan list!

Do you have any suggestions for my "do before leaving Japan" list?  Leave me a note if you do! 

Higashi Hongan Ji 東本願寺

Across the street from our Ryokan in Kyoto, there stood an impressive looking temple-Higashi Hongan Ji Temple.  Not having much time to explore Kyoto, we decided to get up early the following morning to go have a look before heading off to our next big destination.

The streets of Kyoto were still at six in the morning.  We walked over, slipped off our shoes and walked up the steep wooden stairs to peek inside the temple.  Beautiful chanting was drifting through the open doors.  A service was taking place.  The temple members and the Buddhist monks steady chants were lovely. 

 

It is especially at times such as this that wish I knew more about Buddhism.  We have learned a bit about religion in Japan, but I still feel like I know next to nothing.  I do know that the two prominent religions in Japan are Buddhism and Shintoism.  Most religious Japanese people practice both religions.

I have heard that Shintoism is the religion of life.  All celebrations including life-new life, marriages, etc.-are celebrated in the Shinto tradition.  In fact, there are no funerals held at Shinto Shrines.  Buddhism takes care of life after death.  Funerals are held at Buddhist Temples.  The cremated bodies are placed in the burial grounds that can be found at every Buddhist Temple.

If you have any good recommendations of books on this subject, please leave me a note!  

Hello, Dolly (A night of Jazz)

 

…a jazz bar.  A whiskey jazz bar, to be exact.  This place was about as un-Japanese (traditionally speaking) as you can get.  The name of the bar was Hello, Dolly (Sorry, couldn't find a good English website.)

  

(Be warned: The audio for this video is not good, though it nicely shows the inside of the bar.)

Unfortunately, I missed the fine print on the sign outside and didn’t realize that there was pretty hefty seating charge.  Whoops.  Despite that, we had a great time.  Had a fancy drink, enjoyed the atmosphere, and listened to the fantastic jazz quartet. 

It was great. If you are looking for a great relaxing finish to a day in Kyoto, I highly recommend this bar!

Weekend Trips: Mikatagoko, Obama (the town)

One of the great things about studying at Yamasa for us was the proximity to new places.  We live very close to Tokyo-which is wonderful-but we love traveling and exploring other parts of Japan. 

Yamasa offers fantastic weekend trip opportunities.  We took advantage of one over night trip and two day trips during our time there.  Unfortunately for us, the first trip-the overnight one-included lots of traffic which resulted in cutting about half the original itinerary.  (One of the later days trips made up for what we missed.)

The first place we visited on our overnight trip was a National Park in Fukui Ken called Wakasa Bay Quasi.  According to the sign, these are “Wetlands of International Importance” and serve as breeding grounds for several types of invaluable fish. 

Map of the Mikatagoko area.

One of the attractions is at the top of one of the mountains.  We rode a lift to the top where we had an fantastic view and saw some interesting attractions:

The lift.

You could buy a lock, etch a message on it (usually a romantic one), and then lock it on the railing. 

There were virtually thousands of locks on the railings!

Little clay discs you could buy, write a messgae on and hurl over the railing into the forest.

Karl throwing his wish.

Kabuto Mushi-all of my elementary students are obsessed with these beetles.

Kabuto mushi eating a sugar jelly.

Map and view from the top.

Our second stop for the day was a brief drive through the little coastal town of Obama in Fukui Ken.  When President Obama was elected in the United States four years ago, this little town suddenly experienced world-wide fame. 

Our day ended back in Kyoto.  We had a full kaiseki meal at a restaurant in the Gion district.  During the summer the restaurants along the Shirakawa River set up special decks that float above the river.  This provides a cool relief from the oppressive humidity of the Kyoto summer. 

The dinner was delicious.

Miso

Hatcho Miso

Living in Japan has expanded my horizons in a vast number of ways.  Everyday I learn a little bit more…but this usually just makes me even more aware of just how much I don’t know. 

One of the most fun-and occasionally challenging-things about living in Japan has been food.  I wasn’t a terribly picky eater before coming to Japan, but now I am definitely not a picky eater at all.  (Though there are a few foods I keep my distance from: natto, snails, raw horse meat…you know-the weird stuff.  Click on the link, if you dare!) 

One of the foods I discovered as soon as I arrived in Japan was miso: fermented soybean paste.  It is way more delicious than it sounds-I promise.  (And healthy, too!)

I had wondered about the process of making miso, so when a friend of ours set up a tour of a miso factory this past August, I was ready to get my learning on.  

The factory we toured is called Hatcho Miso, in Okazaki, Aichi Ken.  (The same city in which we were studying Japanese.)  This particular factory has been around for centuries.  The most interesting thing I learned was that today, the miso at this particular factory is made in exactly the same way it has always been made.

The process begins with cooking and then mashing the soybeans.  They place the ingredients-the soybeans, koji fungus, and salt- in the large wooden tubs and place the lid on top.  Pressure is created by stacking an exact amount of rocks on the top of the lid.  The tub is numbered and dated and set upon a metal stand to keep it off of the ground.

And then it sits.  For a long time.

After the appropriate amount of time has passed, the miso is taken out, packaged, and shipped to stores and restaurants.  This post has more information on Hatcho Miso as well as others types of miso. 

Miso Chan!

At the end of the tour, we got to try the miso.  It was delicious!

There was also a surprise treat at the end of the tour: miso ice cream.  Which was surprisingly good. 

Who would have ever thought that vanilla ice cream with fermented soybean paste would be delicious? (Though I would hesitate to try any of these ice cream flavors!)

The more you know!