Weekend Trips: Mikatagoko, Obama (the town)

One of the great things about studying at Yamasa for us was the proximity to new places.  We live very close to Tokyo-which is wonderful-but we love traveling and exploring other parts of Japan. 

Yamasa offers fantastic weekend trip opportunities.  We took advantage of one over night trip and two day trips during our time there.  Unfortunately for us, the first trip-the overnight one-included lots of traffic which resulted in cutting about half the original itinerary.  (One of the later days trips made up for what we missed.)

The first place we visited on our overnight trip was a National Park in Fukui Ken called Wakasa Bay Quasi.  According to the sign, these are “Wetlands of International Importance” and serve as breeding grounds for several types of invaluable fish. 

Map of the Mikatagoko area.

One of the attractions is at the top of one of the mountains.  We rode a lift to the top where we had an fantastic view and saw some interesting attractions:

The lift.

You could buy a lock, etch a message on it (usually a romantic one), and then lock it on the railing. 

There were virtually thousands of locks on the railings!

Little clay discs you could buy, write a messgae on and hurl over the railing into the forest.

Karl throwing his wish.

Kabuto Mushi-all of my elementary students are obsessed with these beetles.

Kabuto mushi eating a sugar jelly.

Map and view from the top.

Our second stop for the day was a brief drive through the little coastal town of Obama in Fukui Ken.  When President Obama was elected in the United States four years ago, this little town suddenly experienced world-wide fame. 

Our day ended back in Kyoto.  We had a full kaiseki meal at a restaurant in the Gion district.  During the summer the restaurants along the Shirakawa River set up special decks that float above the river.  This provides a cool relief from the oppressive humidity of the Kyoto summer. 

The dinner was delicious.

Miso

Hatcho Miso

Living in Japan has expanded my horizons in a vast number of ways.  Everyday I learn a little bit more…but this usually just makes me even more aware of just how much I don’t know. 

One of the most fun-and occasionally challenging-things about living in Japan has been food.  I wasn’t a terribly picky eater before coming to Japan, but now I am definitely not a picky eater at all.  (Though there are a few foods I keep my distance from: natto, snails, raw horse meat…you know-the weird stuff.  Click on the link, if you dare!) 

One of the foods I discovered as soon as I arrived in Japan was miso: fermented soybean paste.  It is way more delicious than it sounds-I promise.  (And healthy, too!)

I had wondered about the process of making miso, so when a friend of ours set up a tour of a miso factory this past August, I was ready to get my learning on.  

The factory we toured is called Hatcho Miso, in Okazaki, Aichi Ken.  (The same city in which we were studying Japanese.)  This particular factory has been around for centuries.  The most interesting thing I learned was that today, the miso at this particular factory is made in exactly the same way it has always been made.

The process begins with cooking and then mashing the soybeans.  They place the ingredients-the soybeans, koji fungus, and salt- in the large wooden tubs and place the lid on top.  Pressure is created by stacking an exact amount of rocks on the top of the lid.  The tub is numbered and dated and set upon a metal stand to keep it off of the ground.

And then it sits.  For a long time.

After the appropriate amount of time has passed, the miso is taken out, packaged, and shipped to stores and restaurants.  This post has more information on Hatcho Miso as well as others types of miso. 

Miso Chan!

At the end of the tour, we got to try the miso.  It was delicious!

There was also a surprise treat at the end of the tour: miso ice cream.  Which was surprisingly good. 

Who would have ever thought that vanilla ice cream with fermented soybean paste would be delicious? (Though I would hesitate to try any of these ice cream flavors!)

The more you know!

Umeshu 梅酒

In March, we see the beautiful ume (Japanese plum) blossoms.  In May, the small, firm fruits start to appear in grocery stores.

The ume are typically packaged in measurements of 2 kilograms.  They are also surrounded by bags of rock salt, large glass containers, and clear liquor.

These, my friends, are the essential ingredients of umeshu-Japanese plum wine.

The basic recipe calls for:

1 kg green ume

300-500 g white rock sugar

1800-2000 ml white liquor

Wash the plums well and pick out the tiny stems.  Dry the plums and layer them with the rock sugar in the jar.  Lastly, pour in your alcohol.  Most people wait at least six months to start drinking their umeshu.

Some people say to prick the plums before putting them in the jar.  Some people also say to swirl the jars once a week.  Some people say that is all busy work and not necessary.  You decide.  I pricked the plums of one batch-an experiment to see if it makes a difference.  

We made one with vodka, one with gin, and one with a generic Japanese white liquor.  But there are many other popular varieties out there as well: black sugar, honey, brandy, etc. 

Umeshu is an immensely popular drink in Japan.  I usually drink mine on the rocks, but it is also popularly mixed with club soda.  Both varieties are delicious.  Sometimes, the drink will even be served with an alcohol soaked plum floating amidst the ice.  I eat them.  They are delicious!

Our three jars are sitting peacefully in a closet on the floor...awaiting winter.

I can't wait to try them!

Hiroshima Eats

There is one thing you must be sure to eat when visiting Hiroshima:  Okonomiyaki.

Translated literally into English, it means “as you like it, fried.”  Or something like that. 

You can get a wide variety of types of okonomiyaki, but we stuck to the basic formula.  This consists of eggs, cabbage, pork, noodles, and a special sauce. 

After trying the famous Hiroshima okonomiyaki, we opted for some non-Japanese cuisine during the rest of our time visiting. 

One place we found was called Totide.  It was an Italian restaurant and wine bar.  It was-in short-some of the best Italian food I have ever had.  The service was also fantastic. 

We started with an appetizer from our server (an Italian man who has been living in Japan for sometime and also speaks perfect English)-a fried flat bread served with a fresh soft cheese and extra virgin olive oil. 

Our pasta dishes were exceptional.  The pasta had all been handmade that morning.  The lasagna was at least twenty layers of delicious sauce, cheese, and thin beautiful lasagna noodles.

A white wine smoothie our amazing server let us sample.  It was delightful!

 It was heaven.

On our second day, we found a great Indian restaurant.  And ate waaaaaaaay too much for comfort.  It was incredibly delicious.  

Delicious plate of Indian food-samosas, tandoori chicken, kebab, and chicken tikka.  SO yummy.

One of my all-time favorite Indian foods-saag paneer.

Cheese naan=delicious!

A Many Course Meal

After walking only a few blocks, we came upon what we later learned is the biggest temple entrance gate in all of Japan.  It loomed above us.  Careful not to slip on the slick stone steps, we began climbing up to the Chion-in Temple. 

  

We wandered around the temple, taking in the incredible beauty.  

On the way back to Shiraume.  The woman standing in the white and red kimono is either a Geisha or Maiko.

When we returned to Shiraume, they were ready for us to check in.  They showed us our rooms-which were gorgeous-and welcomed us with tea and cakes. 

One of the special things ryokans such as Shiraume offer is a elaborate dinner served to you right in your room.  This is a traditional multi-course Japanese meal called "kaiseki."  This was-without a doubt-one of my favorite parts of the entire trip.  

Ready for dinner-the napkins are provided as gift souvenirs.

The food was amaaaazing. ( I am afraid I can't remember what everything was called...)

Course 1:Eel, shrimp, bamboo shoots, plums, and fish.

Also part of course1: Some type of gelatin with miso (I think) sauce.

Course 2: A clear broth soup with fish, yuzu (a Japanese citrus) and fern garnish.

Course 4: Fish cakes, lotus root, konnyaku, and ginger.

Course 4-single serving.

Course 5 (option 1): Baby octopus, fish and asparagus.

Course 5, part 2, option 1: Delicious sashimi!

Course 5, option 2: Kobe beef. (It virtually melted in your mouth. Melted.)

Course 6: Potato dumpling with eel inside and fresh bamboo shoots. 

Course 7: Tempura.

Cute soy sauce container!

Course 8, part 1: Rice with some type of garnish.  Seaweed, I think.

Course 8, part 2: Japanese pickles.

Course 8, part 3: Miso soup.

Course 9: Dessert.  Fresh fruit, match (green tea) cake with black sesame ice cream.  Otherwise known as heaven.  (It was amazing!)

When we finished our many courses, we decided the best thing to do would be walking.  So out we headed out for some more sight seeing.  There happened to be a lantern festival happening during our stay.  This was especially good for us because that meant the temples and shrines would be open later. 

My favorite place was a Japanese Buddhist Zen Garden ( I am afraid I don't remember the actual name of the place-I am working on finding it) and the pools that perfectly reflected their surroundings.  It was stunning.  

After returning to Shiraume, Karl and I went to our room to relax.  The next day we would explore Nara-Japan’s first (or second) capital city.  

Our beds all ready for us to climb in for the night.

Traditional Japanese wooden bath-they are very deep tubs.  I love them.

Beautiful decor in our room.