Miso

Hatcho Miso

Living in Japan has expanded my horizons in a vast number of ways.  Everyday I learn a little bit more…but this usually just makes me even more aware of just how much I don’t know. 

One of the most fun-and occasionally challenging-things about living in Japan has been food.  I wasn’t a terribly picky eater before coming to Japan, but now I am definitely not a picky eater at all.  (Though there are a few foods I keep my distance from: natto, snails, raw horse meat…you know-the weird stuff.  Click on the link, if you dare!) 

One of the foods I discovered as soon as I arrived in Japan was miso: fermented soybean paste.  It is way more delicious than it sounds-I promise.  (And healthy, too!)

I had wondered about the process of making miso, so when a friend of ours set up a tour of a miso factory this past August, I was ready to get my learning on.  

The factory we toured is called Hatcho Miso, in Okazaki, Aichi Ken.  (The same city in which we were studying Japanese.)  This particular factory has been around for centuries.  The most interesting thing I learned was that today, the miso at this particular factory is made in exactly the same way it has always been made.

The process begins with cooking and then mashing the soybeans.  They place the ingredients-the soybeans, koji fungus, and salt- in the large wooden tubs and place the lid on top.  Pressure is created by stacking an exact amount of rocks on the top of the lid.  The tub is numbered and dated and set upon a metal stand to keep it off of the ground.

And then it sits.  For a long time.

After the appropriate amount of time has passed, the miso is taken out, packaged, and shipped to stores and restaurants.  This post has more information on Hatcho Miso as well as others types of miso. 

Miso Chan!

At the end of the tour, we got to try the miso.  It was delicious!

There was also a surprise treat at the end of the tour: miso ice cream.  Which was surprisingly good. 

Who would have ever thought that vanilla ice cream with fermented soybean paste would be delicious? (Though I would hesitate to try any of these ice cream flavors!)

The more you know!

A Many Course Meal

After walking only a few blocks, we came upon what we later learned is the biggest temple entrance gate in all of Japan.  It loomed above us.  Careful not to slip on the slick stone steps, we began climbing up to the Chion-in Temple. 

  

We wandered around the temple, taking in the incredible beauty.  

On the way back to Shiraume.  The woman standing in the white and red kimono is either a Geisha or Maiko.

When we returned to Shiraume, they were ready for us to check in.  They showed us our rooms-which were gorgeous-and welcomed us with tea and cakes. 

One of the special things ryokans such as Shiraume offer is a elaborate dinner served to you right in your room.  This is a traditional multi-course Japanese meal called "kaiseki."  This was-without a doubt-one of my favorite parts of the entire trip.  

Ready for dinner-the napkins are provided as gift souvenirs.

The food was amaaaazing. ( I am afraid I can't remember what everything was called...)

Course 1:Eel, shrimp, bamboo shoots, plums, and fish.

Also part of course1: Some type of gelatin with miso (I think) sauce.

Course 2: A clear broth soup with fish, yuzu (a Japanese citrus) and fern garnish.

Course 4: Fish cakes, lotus root, konnyaku, and ginger.

Course 4-single serving.

Course 5 (option 1): Baby octopus, fish and asparagus.

Course 5, part 2, option 1: Delicious sashimi!

Course 5, option 2: Kobe beef. (It virtually melted in your mouth. Melted.)

Course 6: Potato dumpling with eel inside and fresh bamboo shoots. 

Course 7: Tempura.

Cute soy sauce container!

Course 8, part 1: Rice with some type of garnish.  Seaweed, I think.

Course 8, part 2: Japanese pickles.

Course 8, part 3: Miso soup.

Course 9: Dessert.  Fresh fruit, match (green tea) cake with black sesame ice cream.  Otherwise known as heaven.  (It was amazing!)

When we finished our many courses, we decided the best thing to do would be walking.  So out we headed out for some more sight seeing.  There happened to be a lantern festival happening during our stay.  This was especially good for us because that meant the temples and shrines would be open later. 

My favorite place was a Japanese Buddhist Zen Garden ( I am afraid I don't remember the actual name of the place-I am working on finding it) and the pools that perfectly reflected their surroundings.  It was stunning.  

After returning to Shiraume, Karl and I went to our room to relax.  The next day we would explore Nara-Japan’s first (or second) capital city.  

Our beds all ready for us to climb in for the night.

Traditional Japanese wooden bath-they are very deep tubs.  I love them.

Beautiful decor in our room.

Season of Soup Part 2: Tortellini Spinach Pesto

I know I have complained before of some ingredients being difficult to find in Japan.  (Cheese is one, if you recall.) 

Making Chinese soups is a snap.  Finding ingredients for Asian recipes is usually not too hard.  Things like fresh shiitake mushrooms and bamboo shoots, which would otherwise be dried or canned. 

Fabulous.

After the Schezuan soup, I was in the mood for something different.  So I looked to Italy.

I have found and used some great soup recipes on the Eating Well website.  This particular recipe I based off of Eating Well’s Chicken and Spinach Pesto recipe-it's delicious. 

When I made this soup, I basically made the Chicken and Spinach Pesto soup, but added tortellini.  If I could get my hands on Italian sausage, I would have substituted it for the chicken, but alas.  I have yet to discover Italian sausage in the Land of the Rising Sun.  Sigh.

But the chicken is still delightful.  It's an excellent soup.

I recommend wine and Italian bread on the side with tiramisu for dessert. (In my book, these three things go with any meal.)

Yummy!

Find the soup recipe here.