Leaving Kyoto

You know the type of place you visit for the first time and are just amazed?  When it comes time to leave you are already making plans to return?  I have lots of places like that.  And Kyoto is one of them. 

On the morning of the day we had to leave Kyoto, we had just enough time to go see one of the most famous temples in Japan-and probably the world.  The Temple of the Golden Paviliion-Kinkakuji （金閣寺）in Japanese.   

We got there by bus from Kyoto station-which I do not recommend.  It was hot, extremely crowded, and took more than an hour.  But any suffering we put up with on the bus was made up for when we got to the temple.

It was beautiful.  Picturesque in a way that almost didn't seem real.  The weather was perfect-the brilliant blue sky reflected in the calm pool that surrounds the temple.   It was breathtaking. 

When the time came to leave, we took a taxi.  Totally worth it.  We had to make to the train station to catch our shinkansen (bullet train) to our next destination. 

We finally reached Kawaguchiko station around 6 that evening, after the train ride and a long bus ride. 

Kawaguchiko Station lies right at the foot of Mount Fuji.  The next day, we would take a day long bus tour around the mountain and the five lakes of Mount Fuji-the “Fuji go ko.”  We were staying at another branch of K’sHouse-it was fabulous.  Excellent service and rooms. 

Exhausted from all of our travel, we managed to rally and go out in search of dinner.  The fates smiled on us: right around the corner, we found an Indian restaurant.  It was perfect.  (I looooove Indian food. Love it.)

Drinking Indian beer-the same kind we drank in India a few months ago.

Nara

Decor in our bathroom at Shiraume.

Flowers are amazing things.  Breakfast is also an amazing thing.  Especially when is brought straight to your room.  After the incredible Japanese kaiseki course, we chose the Western style breakfast for the following morning.  We were not disappointed.  

Now ready to face the day, we took off for Nara. 

Nara is about thirty minutes south of Kyoto by train.  After successfully getting to the correct station, we made our way to Horyuji Temple.  As we reached the temple entrance, a Japanese man approached us.  He was retired, and had taken up the hobby of learning English and offering his services as a volunteer tour guide.  What luck!

He was an excellent guide.  We learned many interesting things about the temple and the surrounding buildings.  It was fascinating. 

Our next stop was lunch.  Some delicious Japanese udon.

The most famous temple in Nara is probably the Todaiji Temple.  To get there from the train station you must either walk, take a taxi, or go by bus.  Along the way, it was impossible not to notice the other reason for Nara’s fame: deer.

Deer were virtually everywhere.  Japanese deer are smaller than those in the US, though they are also wild animals.  Deer are considered to be sacred animals in Nara and are therefore never hunted or eaten.  People are encouraged not to feed them, unless they purchase the special deer crackers that are for sale everywhere. 

These animals were not shy. 

 

After running the deer gauntlet, we finally made it the impressive Todaiji.  As you approach the temple, you must climb the massive stone step to reach the entrance.  Just behind the shroud of incense smoke looming in the dark, is Nara’s famous Daibuttsu-or big Buddha. 

 

The giant serene Buddha sits on his lotus flower in between the guardian statues.  The extreme expressions of these statues were fascinating. 

THe sotry goes that if are able to crawl through this hole in the pillar, you will make it to Heaven. Not surprisingly, children have the easiest time of it.

After soaking in the rich history and culture, we needed to find some sustenance.  Lucky for us when we walked right by this cute little shop.  It was great.  

The Nara mascot hanging out in Nara station.

 A bit of energy regained, we caught the train back to Kyoto.  This was the first night we would stay in the K’s House Japan.  K’s House is a chain of eight hostels around Japan.  They are reasonably priced and extremely nice!  We have stayed in four different locations now and have really enjoyed them all.  If you want to see Japan on a budget-I highly recommend them. 

For dinner there was pizza and beer.  It hit the spot. 

The following day we would move onto Mount Fuji. 

A Many Course Meal

After walking only a few blocks, we came upon what we later learned is the biggest temple entrance gate in all of Japan.  It loomed above us.  Careful not to slip on the slick stone steps, we began climbing up to the Chion-in Temple. 

  

We wandered around the temple, taking in the incredible beauty.  

On the way back to Shiraume.  The woman standing in the white and red kimono is either a Geisha or Maiko.

When we returned to Shiraume, they were ready for us to check in.  They showed us our rooms-which were gorgeous-and welcomed us with tea and cakes. 

One of the special things ryokans such as Shiraume offer is a elaborate dinner served to you right in your room.  This is a traditional multi-course Japanese meal called "kaiseki."  This was-without a doubt-one of my favorite parts of the entire trip.  

Ready for dinner-the napkins are provided as gift souvenirs.

The food was amaaaazing. ( I am afraid I can't remember what everything was called...)

Course 1:Eel, shrimp, bamboo shoots, plums, and fish.

Also part of course1: Some type of gelatin with miso (I think) sauce.

Course 2: A clear broth soup with fish, yuzu (a Japanese citrus) and fern garnish.

Course 4: Fish cakes, lotus root, konnyaku, and ginger.

Course 4-single serving.

Course 5 (option 1): Baby octopus, fish and asparagus.

Course 5, part 2, option 1: Delicious sashimi!

Course 5, option 2: Kobe beef. (It virtually melted in your mouth. Melted.)

Course 6: Potato dumpling with eel inside and fresh bamboo shoots. 

Course 7: Tempura.

Cute soy sauce container!

Course 8, part 1: Rice with some type of garnish.  Seaweed, I think.

Course 8, part 2: Japanese pickles.

Course 8, part 3: Miso soup.

Course 9: Dessert.  Fresh fruit, match (green tea) cake with black sesame ice cream.  Otherwise known as heaven.  (It was amazing!)

When we finished our many courses, we decided the best thing to do would be walking.  So out we headed out for some more sight seeing.  There happened to be a lantern festival happening during our stay.  This was especially good for us because that meant the temples and shrines would be open later. 

My favorite place was a Japanese Buddhist Zen Garden ( I am afraid I don't remember the actual name of the place-I am working on finding it) and the pools that perfectly reflected their surroundings.  It was stunning.  

After returning to Shiraume, Karl and I went to our room to relax.  The next day we would explore Nara-Japan’s first (or second) capital city.  

Our beds all ready for us to climb in for the night.

Traditional Japanese wooden bath-they are very deep tubs.  I love them.

Beautiful decor in our room.